In time, everything and nothing changes

MakTime — Factory report

Russian watches have a certain mythical quality. In fact, the former Soviet Union was once one of the major players in the watch industry. However, social upheaval brought about radical change and the new era was followed by a period of economic recession. As older companies disappeared, new ones emerged to take their place. One of these is Maktime, which brings together the expertise of former leading Russian watchmakers. UHREN-MAGAZIN went to visit the manufacturer in Moscow.

MakTime:
Many women work in the new Moscow Watch Factory,
using their skilled hands to meticulously assemble the watch movements.

The process for gaining access to the Russian watch industry is very different from a visit to a Swiss manufacturer, or even the luxury German watchmaker Glashütte. For starters, you need a visa, which can only be obtained if you receive an official invitation from the manufacturer and have a hotel reservation confirmed in writing.
As if landing at Moscow’s Domodedovo airport wasn’t enough to get my adrenalin pumping, this is then followed by a crazy ride in a taxi, which nearly finishes me off. The driver pays cash on the spot for two nights at the hotel and then suggests that we meet up again here tomorrow morning at nine. Before I even have a chance to object, he’s gone…

Call for freedom

…. and then he’s nearly an hour late the next morning. It’s pouring with rain. He parks in an unpaved area by some sort of acoustic barrier. Through an opening in the barrier, I can see that there are several train tracks on the other side. The driver reacts to my look of bewilderment by frantically pointing in the direction of the tracks. A train rushes past. “Dawai”, he says politely, which basically means “Come on!” and then we “calmly” cross the road bed. It’s hard to believe that a watch-making factory actually lies behind a second wall, which this time features an encoded lock set into a “bomb-proof” door and is followed by rigorous security checks. It’s equally hard to accept that the official, and in fact only, way to access the factory is to take the path over the tracks. I am greeted by Alexander Makarov, who, according to his business card, is the Chief Executive. He gives me Russian tea, a mischievous smile and the promise that he will spend the whole day with me. The telephone rings. One moment please. Duty calls…

Alexander Makarov is not only the manager of the family-run business Maktime; he also co-owns the company with his brother Vjacheslav. Whereas Alexander is the business graduate, Vjacheslav is the development engineer. The two watch enthusiasts set up their factory in 1996, initially to manufacture cases, which is still one of their key skills. These would then be used to encase movements and sold as watches. “We got a taste of freedom,” recalls Alexander Makarov, “and the chance to make some money.” Business was initially confined to Russia, with international trade starting much later in 2005, when the company acquired the production line for the chronograph calibre 3133 from the crumbling First Moscow Watch Factory (Poljot); a factory where Alexander Makarov once worked as head of sales. Prior to this, in 2003, Maktime had also purchased a majority share of the Zarja watch factory in Penza,

Alexander Makarov, Managing Director of Maktime,
who founded the watch factory with his brother in 1996.

a city that lies several hundred kilometres to the southeast of Moscow. By this time, the factory was already inactive.

Maktime relaunched production and the company started manufacturing models such as the 1509, 2009 and 2014 three-hand movements at this site and then, later on, parts for the 3133. Maktime acquired equipment and staff from both Poljot and Zarja. Today, the company has 700 employees, 350 of which work at the original site in Moscow, while the other 350 are based at the Penza factory.
In 2006, Maktime also acquired shares in the Second Moscow Watch Factory (Slava). However, production is currently on hold here, although several members of staff have found work at Maktime in the Russian capital or in Penza.

Manufacturing expertise:
The entire escapement component is developed at Maktime, including the spiral and shock protection. The calibre 3133 carries out 21,600 half-oscillations per hour.
Winding it into the barrel:
This is the how the spiral spring is formed. Only very few manufacturers have mastered this craft.
Produced in-house:
Maktime manufactures its own adhesive, which is then used to fix the spiral spring to the balance wheel.
No limits:
Maktime employees are experts at carrying out all types of work on balance wheels. The picture above shows the spiral spring being glued down.
Calibre 3133 in different varieties:
The iconic watch movement is made in a wide variety of different finishes at Maktime.
Dispatch:
Maktime watches of all colours are dispatched from here, mainly to locations within Russia.
Parts production:
Skilled workers manufacture movement parts on ancient machines with great attention to detail.

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An icon in a time of change

According to Alexander Makarov, the company currently manufactures around 100,000 watches and 90,000 movements per year. Whereas the timepieces themselves don’t tend to be sold outside of Russia, Maktime also receive orders from abroad for its watch movements, for instance from countries such as Germany, Portugal, Holland and Italy. The company also supplies Russian brands with watch movements, with examples including Buran and Aviator. However, you are currently unlikely to find Poljot as a brand name, as Maktime did not inherit this from the First Moscow Watch Factory, much to the company’s regret. It actually belongs to a renowned Russian money oligarchy. Alexander Makarov explains how attempts to secure the trademark rights has so far been unsuccessful. However, he also says very little about the news that the owners of the trademark want to start producing in Switzerland under this label. So, the iconic Russian calibre is still produced by Maktime, but now bears only the number 3133 and not the Poljot name.
Insiders will know that this calibre is based on the Swiss Valjoux hand-wound chronograph movement known as the 7734. When the Swiss manufacturer ceased producing the movement in 1974, the Moscow-based watchmakers Poljot purchased all rights to this, including the machinery and tools, and created the Poljot calibre 3133. To this very day, it is still made in exactly the same way, aside from a few changes, which include a smaller balance wheel but higher frequency, the addition of its own shock protection feature and a quick-set date function. Over time,

Maktime has acquired the machinery needed for this. There are also several different variations, for instance the 31682 has a 24-hour display and the 31679 features a moon phase dial, while the sleek 3105 model has no chronograph movement.

Tatjana Malik, the MakTime Production Manager :
benefits from years of experience and has full control over her department.

A fascination with production

Maktime also worked on developing an automatic calibre between 2006 and 2008. This model, known as the 30664, has been designed to resemble the ETA/Valjoux 7750. However, the economic crisis has thus far prevented it from being put into production, although there are now plans to start producing it in the coming year. The facilities for this new model are ready and waiting at the former Slava production site.
The manufacture of some 3133 calibres has changed so dramatically that it is barely recognisable. On a tour through the production area, Production Manager, Tatjana Malik, proudly shows me “her little darling”; a range of 3133 movements with rhodium-plated, blackened or gold-plated bridges and plates, frames and set stones – everything you can possibly imagine! It is incredible to think that such delicate work can be carried out amidst the rumbling of passing freight trains. But Tatjana has more to show me. Behind a mysterious door bearing the sign “Sborka Usla Balansa” we come across an area where staff assemble balance wheels and manufacture the spiral springs.

Michail Korin:Manager of the state-of-the-art case production area, where the process begins with casting the raw materials.

Even the adhesive, which is used to fix the thin wire to the balance wheel, is developed here. In fact, Maktime produces almost everything in-house, apart from jewel bearings and main springs, and also boasts a highly skilled tool shop.

Finishing: Decorating cases and straps with beautiful stones is one of the many skills at the Maktime factory.

The step-by-step manufacture of watch movement components is a far cry from “computer numerical control” (CNC) and even the machines from Switzerland for the 3133 model appear to be ancient. “The machines are old,” jokes an experienced employee. “But they work because of the people that use them.”

Wheel production:There are a number of different stages to forming the gear train. The wheel, pinion and arbor are being combined here.

Setting stones: Jewel bearings are one of the only components that are not produced by Maktime.

Swiss heritage: These machines have changed hands twice already and were once used to make parts for the Valjoux chronograph calibre 7734.

Catching up with the present

However, it’s a completely different story in the case production area and it’s obvious that this part of the business is where Makarov’s heart lies. Here, modern CNC machines process gold, silver, stainless steel and sometimes even titanium. Yet, at Maktime, the manufacturing process begins much earlier than this, with the casting of the raw material; another rarely observed process at watch case manufacturers. Once casting is complete, the material is then rolled, relaxed, stamped, twisted and milled. In addition to cases, all types of metal wristbands are also made here. This part of the business works closely with the design department, mainly to produce valuable one-off items. The designers also create watches decorated with jewels, so goldsmiths are kept busy adding fine gem cuts and engravings and setting valuable precious stones. Whereas unique pieces such as these can easily cost 20,000, 30,000 or 50,000 dollars (in fact, the “Crest of the Roman Empire”, a fully diamond-encrusted timepiece, can bring the cost up to 70,000 dollars), most Maktime watches range in price from 6,000 to 90,000 roubles, at a rate of 40 roubles to one euro.
However, the company is less interested in gaining a position in the luxury goods market and more concerned with developing the business internationally. Alexander Makarov believes that the German market is absolutely essential for this and is therefore working actively alongside several partners on various projects, one of which involves the development of a horological complication. But he also supplies watch movements and individual components, for instance those used for the balance wheel, to various different companies.
As I end my visit with a walk through a newly-built quarter of Moscow, I think to myself that he may have embarked on a long journey, but he seems to be on the right track. A bar on the corner is offering Bavarian sausage, or “Weisswurst”, with a litre of beer as a promotion for “Oktoberfest”. My choice is simple: I order Soljanka

CNC machining centre:It all began with manufacturing cases and Maktime has now invested in cutting-edge machinery for this.

We would like to thank Martina Richter and UHREN MAGAZIN for the permission to publish this article. In our eyes it is a real gem for for the people with interest in the Russian watch industry. Therefore we took care of a professional translation by id2m from German to English and German to French. The French version will is available on this site soon.

MakTime today:

Time today now truly stands still for the Russian chronograph production. The time and cost intensive production of the famous Russian 31mm chronograph calibers stopped on 01/01/2012. A sad phase to Mr. Makarovs dream to continue and extend this horological heritage. We really bow low for his courage to try and give his best in this mission and thank for a longstanding partnership.

You can (NOT) still find MakTime under the following domain: maktime-shop.ru. (NOT)

MakTime as of 2019 is dead since 7 years… We still will be able to fire 31mm based watches. But we need to do it like VW with a modular base case. Volmax made this sucessfully for years. Not that we want to copy, but watchmaking got more interesting over the years.

What we have in stock:

In time, everything and nothing changes

MakTime — Factory report

MakTime:

Call for freedom

Manufacturing expertise:

Winding it into the barrel:

Produced in-house:

No limits:

Calibre 3133 in different varieties:

Dispatch:

Parts production:

An icon in a time of change

A fascination with production

Catching up with the present

MakTime today: